When we did our RTW trip in 2019, the whole family agreed that Greece was somewhere we’d return as soon as possible, so in the doldrums of February, we bought our plane tickets and started our research, booking AirBnbs in Elika, Nafplion, and Porto Rafti on the way out of Athens. We used booking.com for our accommodation in Meteora, and it worked out perfectly.
Elika was the ideal place to start our vacation. We spent nine days in the seaside village with a handful of great restaurants, one in particular I’d been reminiscing about for three years. Every night we had delicious meals, usually starting around 9pm. A quick list: gemista (stuffed tomatoes and bell peppers), tzatziki, roasted pork, gyros, dolmas (stuffed grape leaves), chicken or pork souvlaki skewers, saganaki (fried cheese), lemony Greek potatoes, calamari, zucchini croquettes, and Greek salads every night, with the signature slice of feta on top – fragrant oregano and good olive oil was all the dressing needed. Our AirBnb in Elika was a tiny home on a quiet stretch of road with a sandy beach. While the home was humble, it was luxurious to walk the ten seconds from the cottage into the truly Mediterranean blue water. Interlude: I dove in with my swim mask. The water was crystal clear all around me, shimmering blue light filtered in. The beige sand was uncluttered, happy to keep its wavy ridges intact. I swam for a while alone but connected to the world. It was pure tranquility.
A private beach is exquisite, but it’s also fun to secure a couple of lounges under a thatched umbrella for the day. Tortuga Beach was a one-minute drive from our place, and we’d post up, play in the warm water and reeeeeelax. Of course we enjoyed a few treats from the cantina – frappes (iced coffee with foamy milk), chips (Please, Lays, bring us the oregano flavour!) and local beers Alpha and Fix. We ventured to two other beaches: Elafonisos and Plitra, both with beautiful blue vistas, hot white sand, and bathtub-warm water. We spent our days swimming, chatting, reading,and playing Uno. Vacation life.
We took a day trip to Monemvasia (which we had done in 2019), a spectacular town carved into a mountain-island, an ancient citadel with a panoramic view. We wandered through the quiet town, sparsely inhabited, partly in ruins, explored the fortress, and ended the evening checking out little shops and having another great supper. Like everywhere in Greece, there are always cats nearby ready to take care of any scraps.
Our next stay was for three days in Nafplion, a small city on the water, still in the Peloponnese. Traveling with Labi, Jill and the girls, we shared a beautiful two story house in the middle of an orange grove. This large, new modern home was beautifully designed, spacious and comfortable, and had a private pool, a must when the weather was always over 30 degrees.
When we left our luxurious digs, it was to visit fascinating ancient historical sites. We hiked around the citadel of Mycenae, constructed over three thousand years ago, an elaborate fortress with a working water source. Then we checked out the Treasury of Atreus, an ancient architectural feat. It’s a beehive-shaped tomb that was the largest dome in the world for a thousand years.
The castle of Palimidi looks over the city of Nafplion and we toured it before supper one evening. It was a bit unnerving to be walking around with our kids at such great heights, but the views of the city and ocean were fantastic. It’s interesting to stroll through places with such strange and long histories, and to imagine what life was like when they were inhabited – if these walls could talk.
The final leg of our Greek journey was to Meteora, which is in central Greece. It was an epic six-hour drive from Nafplion to Meteora, over, around, and through mountains (lots of tunnels). Mike did great driving our rental car. He got pretty smooth at saying “efcharistó” to the many toll booth workers. Very “daxi” of him.
The town of Kalabaka is at the base of unique, massive sandstone rock formations. The road twists and turns up the mountains and there are six byzantine monasteries built into and upon the rocks. We toured the museum sections of several of the monasteries, which remain inhabited by monks or nuns for the last 600 years. The artifacts and paintings were engaging and definitely gave a window into the effect and evolution of Christianity. It was a great place for physical and mental exercise.
In juxtaposition with the solemn monasteries, we stayed at a family-oriented motel with pools and waterslides. We all had a blast zipping down and floating around. The kids loved their poolside smoothies. In the evenings, we enjoyed the “Feel The Rocks” restaurant vibe so much that we went there twice, and we had a great supper at Taverna Gardenia in Kastraki, the older part of town.
It was a wonderful trip, spending lots of time together as a family, hanging out with friends (Labi, Jill, Alexandra, Olympia, Dave, Sotiria, Kyriakos, and Alexandra!). The beaches, the food, the friendliest of the Greek people, all make it an easy and interesting destination. We will return one day. Resisting referring to Odysseus here is a challenge. YASSAS!
More on Monemvasia (https://www.visitgreece.gr/mainland/peloponnese/monemvasia/)
More on Elafonisos https://www.visitgreece.gr/mainland/peloponnese/elafonisos/
More on Meteora
We are going to Greece in October. Can’t wait. Your travel log makes me more excited to go !
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